Seattle Overview
Location : The western coastal part
of Washington
Area : over 155 sq kilometres (60
sq miles)
Population : 3.1 million
 Founded
in 1869, the ‘Emerald City’ is a young city, which experienced its first
boom in the late 1890s as the last US departure point for those chasing
the Klondike Gold Rush. Now, Seattle is the primary international and
domestic gateway to Washington State and the lush Pacific Northwest, as
well as Canada and Alaska. Recently, it has been at the forefront of a
number of international trends – the influences of Microsoft and the e-commerce
boom, Starbucks coffee, the grunge music scene and the new Frank Gehry
designed Experience Music Project Museum have all raised the city’s image.
Seattle has also been continuously voted one of America’s most liveable
cities, due in a large part to its beautiful natural setting, surrounded
by the waters of Lake Washington and Puget Sound, with spectacular views
of the Cascades and the Olympic Mountains, including its highest peak,
Mount Rainier. The climate is moderate, with bright summer days outlining
the mountains against blue skies, even the mist and rain of winter give
an ethereal touch to the city’s atmosphere. Numerous ports, waterways
and small islands off the coast also lend Nordic comparisons. Visitors
come for the scenery and outdoor activities that suit city residents so
well. Mountains afford spectacular views and skiing, while the city’s
waterways make boating and relaxing at waterside cafés a draw.
In addition to the city’s fresh and fit atmosphere, Seattle has a palpable
cultural pulse, fostered by quality arts and live music venues, dozens
of independent and quality bookshops, multicultural neighbourhoods and
markets, as well as the renown of its seafood and contemporary Northwestern
cuisine.
The Greater Seattle is Washington state’s largest urban centre, even though
the city itself has only 534,700 inhabitants. Over the past 30 years,
the region has grown nearly twice as fast as the national average and
part of the disproportion of Seattle’s city population and its outlying
areas is because of sprawl brought on by the high-tech revolution. Since
Bill Gates opened Microsoft in Redmond in 1975, the city has become a
world centre of the industry and also home to a legion of ‘Microsoft
Millionaires’ who invested in stock in the early years of the company’s
boom. Consequently, property prices in the city have soared, banishing
those with more mundane occupations to the outlying suburbs and leading
to a relentless spread of highways and cheaper condominium complexes where
onc there were farms and woodlands.
 The
part of the city that has suffered the most in the suburban push has been
Seattle’s old Downtown, where the famous Pike Place Market still
overlooks the bay and Pioneer Square contains the city’s few historic
buildings. There are still plenty of galleries and trendy pubs but the
area tends to be deserted after dark when commuters have left and the
city’s many homeless are more in evidence. The trendiest areas are now
Capitol Hill, as well as Belltown, Fremont and Ballard. These historic
neighbourhoods have appealed to Seattle’s young and well-off, who have
the money to restore the turn-of-the-century wooden houses and old brick
industrial buildings into elegant homes, designer lofts, quirky shops
and galleries or night spots. Without question, Seattle is a city of youthful
dynamism with its eye on the high-tech future and the profits and innovations
this new industry can bring.
Fact in Seattle
Expansion has led to the usual big-city problems -- increases in crime,
drug abuse, homelessness, poverty, and traffic congestion, along with
a decline in the quality of the public schools. Many residents have fled
to the nearby suburb of Bellevue, which has swollen from a quiet farming
community to become Washington's fifth-largest city. But despite the growing
pains they've endured, Seattleites have a great love for their city and
a firm commitment to maintaining its reputation as one of the most livable
areas in the country.
Seattle Tourist Attractions
Pike Place Market
For a hungry traveler on a budget, Seattle has no greater attraction than
the Pike Place Market. Nearly a century old, Pike Place is one of Seattle's
most popular landmarks, as famous for the theatrics of its boisterous
vendors as it is for its vastly appealing edibles. Its most popular buildings
are the Main and North arcades, with their artfully arranged banks of
produce, and fresh fish, crabs and mollusks piled high on ice. The best
bet for enjoying the market is to go on an uncrowded weekday morning.
Wander slowly, sample frequently and remember to keep your eyes peeled
for flying fish: the fishmongers hurtle huge salmon between their stalls
at breakneck speeds!
Over half of the market's open-air stalls are now devoted to locally made
arts & crafts, and its labyrinthine lower levels are filled with pocket-sized
shops of all descriptions, from Indian spice stalls to magicians' supply
shops. The streets surrounding Pike Place Market continue the maze of
shops, with ethnic food stalls, plant shops, galleries and gift boutiques.
Pike Place Market is in the northwest corner of downtown, near the waterfront.
Seattle Center
The 1962 World's Fair, also known as the 'Century 21 Exposition', brought
in nearly 10 million visitors from around the world for a glimpse of Tomorrow,
Seattle-style. What remains of the futuristic enclave of exhibition halls,
arenas and public spaces is today called the Seattle Center. Don't be
surprised if it generates more nostalgia for The Jetsons than thoughts
of the future.
No other icon epitomizes Seattle as well as the Space Needle, a 600ft
(180m) rocket-styled observation station and restaurant. After the 43-second
zip up its elevators to the top, the brave of stomach are treated to breathtaking
360? views. A 1.5 mile (2.5km) experiment in mass transit, the Monorail
is another signature piece of the 1962 fair. Today, it provides fun and
frequent transport between downtown and Seattle Center, covering the distance
in only two minutes.
The Flag Pavilion & Plaza and the International Fountain (with jets
of water that pulse to the beat of music) point to the cosmopolitan sympathies
of the fair. The Seattle Opera House (home of the opera, symphony and
ballet), the Pacific Science Center, two sports arenas, a children's museum
and the Fun Forest Amusement Park are other remnants of the fair. Seattle
Center is less than a mile northwest of downtown.
The U District
The University of Washington campus sits at the edge of a busy commercial
area known as the U District. The main streets here - University Way,
commonly called 'the Ave,' and NE 45th St - are chock-a-block with cheap
restaurants and cafes, arthouse cinemas and student-filled bars. It's
less a throwback to the 1960s as it was in days past, but the bustle is
no less satisfying.
'U Dub,' as most people refer to the university, is a lively place that's
definitely worth touring - especially in spring, when pink and orange
flowered azaleas paint the campus in brilliant hues. Burke Museum keeps
a good collection of dinosaur skeletons, but its real treasures are its
Indian artifacts, especially the collection of cedar canoes and totem
poles. The school's fine-art showspace, Henry Art Gallery, mounts some
of Seattle's most intelligent 20th century art exhibits.
Just south of the Lake Washington ship canal, university-run Washington
Park Arboretum features 5500 different plant species within 200 acres
(80ha) of mature forest and gardens. At the southern edge of the arboretum
is the Japanese Garden, a collection of koi pools, waterfalls and manicured
plantings. Bird watching is popular at the northern end of the arboretum,
as are canoeing, fishing and swimming. The U District is 3 miles (5km)
northeast of downtown and accessible by bus.
Capitol Hill
Inlaid brass dance steps along Broadway propel you into a rumba or a tango
(actually, it's public art), but you'll never see a local learning the
steps. And that's about as aesthetic as the streets get. Unlike other
parts of the city, it's the throngs of people and not the buildings that
really set Capitol Hill apart from other neighborhoods. Long a counterculture
oasis, there are probably more nose rings on Capitol Hill than anywhere
else in the Northwest. Also the principal gay and lesbian neighborhood
in Seattle, the area exudes an unmatched creative vitality.
Broadway - dotted with atmospheric eateries and drinkeries - is the neighborhood's
main strip. With its multitudes of sweets shops and cafes, it's also a
fine place to develop sugar and caffeine habits. For some divine accompaniment
with your indulgence, sit close to St Marks Cathedral, where a chorus
performs Gregorian chants on Sunday nights. South of Broadway is the hip
Pike/Pine Corridor, a nightlife hotspot of all-night coffeehouses, live-music
clubs and rowdy, smoke-filled bars. If you're looking for late night action,
this is one of Seattle's most lively scenes. Capitol Hill is a mile (2km)
northeast of downtown and connected to the city center by bus.
Queen Anne
Rising above Seattle Center is Queen Anne - a neighborhood of majestic
red-brick houses and apartment buildings, sweeping lawns manicured to
perfection and gorgeous views of the city and bay. Queen Anne is not nearly
as established as other neighborhoods, but it does have cafes, trendy
music clubs and some old-time Seattle entertainment. The main reason to
visit is to check out the view. The observatory deck at 3rd Ave and Highland
Drive is the best spot for it, especially at night or sunset. Queen Anne
is just over a mile (2km) northwest of downtown and has frequent bus connections
to the city center.
Getting
Around
Seattle's Sea-Tac Airport is 13
miles (21km) south of the city via I-5. Gray Line's Airport Express and
Shuttle Express both offer inexpensive rides to and from Seattle's major
downtown hotels.
Taxis are another option, though they're not for the budget-conscious.
There are plenty of car rental agencies at the airport if you want to
chauffeur yourself.
Metro Transit buses blanket the metropolitan area, with most buses running
through downtown on 4th Ave or in the Bus Tunnel, which has five downtown
entrances.
In the immediate downtown area, all bus rides are free from 6am to 7pm
in the area between 6th Ave and the Waterfront, and between Jackson St
in Pioneer Square and Battery St. Note that Seattle Center is outside
of the Ride Free Area.
Seattle Trolley Tours make for great downtown transport. Visitors are
encouraged to get off and on at leisure, and tickets are good for the
full day of operation. Stops, indicated by bright yellow sandwich boards,
include the Space Needle, Pike Place, Waterfront, Pioneer Square, International
District, Kingdome and Seattle Art Museum. The trolley runs every 30 minutes.
If you're driving to Seattle, you'll probably arrive via I-5 or I-90.
It's usually wise to check traffic conditions before you hit the freeways,
as Seattle's traffic is second only to that of Los Angeles in sheer hellishness.
Downtown Seattle also has miles of one-way streets, and parking can be
a nightmare (as well as expensive).
For trips outside the city limits, the Washington State Ferry system is
a wonderfully scenic way to get around. The views of the city from out
on the Sound are tops, making a ride on a sunny summer day worth taking
whether you need to get anywhere or not. Ferries leave from the piers
along the Alaskan Way waterfront.
Getting There & Away
Seattle's airport, known as Sea-Tac, is the largest in the Pacific Northwest,
offering daily service to Europe, Asia and points throughout North America.
Seattle is also a major hub for local commuter airlines and has frequent
flights to Portland and Vancouver.
Greyhound buses link Seattle to Portland, Eugene and points in California
along I-5 south, as well as to Bellingham and Vancouver on I-5 north.
Buses also serve the I-90 corridor from Seattle to Spokane and on through
northern Idaho and Montana to Chicago. If you're heading to British Columbia,
Quick Shuttle makes daily express runs between Seattle and Vancouver.
Pickup is either at the airport or the downtown Travelodge.
Seattle's King St Station is the terminus of two Amtrak train lines. The
Empire Builder heads east through Spokane, eventually reaching Chicago,
while the Coast Starlight runs between Seattle and Los Angeles, with stops
in Tacoma, Olympia, Portland, San Francisco and points south.
Ferries to Washington destinations (Bremerton and Bainbridge Island) are
state operated, with reservations taken for vehicles only. Reservations
for ferries that pass through Canadian waters are also recommended and
can be made by calling individual operators. The passenger-only Victoria
Clipper departs from Pier 69 in Seattle for Victoria, British Columbia,
mornings daily (2.5 hours). The slower but cheaper Victoria Line plies
the same route in the afternoon (4.5 hours). Travelers should be prepared
to go through Canadian customs upon arrival.
Most national car rental firms have facilities at the airport. There are
also a handful of companies that rent motorhomes (RVs), campers and motorcycles.
As everywhere else in the USA and Canada, driving is on the right.
Activities in Seattle
As hometown to the giant outfitting companies Eddie Bauer and REI, it
should come as no surprise that Seattle folk love their great outdoors.
It's even possible to hike wilderness trails without ever leaving the
city. Seward Park, which juts into Lake Washington 6 miles (10km) southeast
of downtown, offers several miles of trails in a remnant of the area's
old growth forest. Even longer trails are available in the 543 acre (220
hectare) Discovery Park, 5 miles (8km) northwest of downtown.
Another long-distance path that is welcoming to both hikers and
bikers is the Burke-Gilman Trail, a 16.5-mile (26.5km) paved path
that winds from Ballard to Log Boom Park on Seattle's Eastside. The trail
follows an old rail line along the shores of Lake Union and Lake Washington,
and the views are great. Nearby Green Lake Park is a favorite with swimmers
and windsurfers in summer, and the paths that line Green Lake are
often alive with joggers.
In good weather, the surface of Lake Union offers fine sailing,
as well as sea and white-water kayaking. The Waterfront Activities
Center on the University of Washington campus rents canoes and rowboats.
Seattle is fortunate to have several ski areas within easy drive of the
city. Closest are the ski slopes at Snoqualmie Pass and Stevens Pass,
80 miles (125km) east of Seattle, and Crystal Mountain, 75 miles (121km)
southeast of town near Mt Rainier. If you don't have a vehicle or don't
want to face the drive, ski buses leave from several locations in the
Seattle area.
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